
MEMORIES OF THURSTONLAND AND STOCKSMOOR
FOREWORD
The following text and subsequent pages relate to the area
around which I live. Brockholes is situated down the hill
from Thurstonland, a distance of half a mile, in the valley
of the River Holme. The Holme valley is situated on the southern
outskirts of Huddersfield and is set amidst the beautiful
Pennine hills.

Brockholes
Village, At the Foot of Thurstonland Bank
INTRODUCTION
Built on a hilly ridge that stretches from Sheffield to
Castle Hill, the inhabitants of Thurstonland have enjoyed
magnificent views ever since Scandinavians first settled it
in the late 9th century.
Most of the village lies on the gentler dip slope on the lee
side from the prevailing winds that blow from the Pennines
only 7 miles away.
Though predominantly built in the 18th and 19th
centuries, there has been a healthy growth in the number of
houses, with building in the 1950’s, 60’s and 90’s. This
has ensured that the community, it’s school and clubs continue
to thrive without being swamped by rebuilding as has occurred
in many villages.
The old township of Thurstonland was extensive, stretching
from the River Holme in the west to Thunderbridge Dike in
the east.
Its main occupation for centuries was agriculture. Weaving,
mining, quarrying, and brick making have also played an important
role in recent times.
These stories, tales, descriptions and anecdotes by the people
of Thurstonland are important in that they encapsulate a village
lifestyle which is rapidly disappearing as we move into the
third millennium.
THE CHURCH CLOCK
The following is an extract from the Thurstonland Thunderer
from February 1981: -
“In the last issue it was mentioned that arrangements were
in hand to have the clock and bell working again. We wish
to point out that it was realised that winding was all that
was required and synchronising striking to time."
The recently overhauled monument was made by William Potts
of Leeds in 1889. A brass plaque commemorates Louis Haigh
of Sydney and formerly of Blackhouse in Thurstonland who donated
the clock on 13 July 1889.
Fortunately, the beautifully engineered movement with its
quality gravity escapement is protected from the nitrogenous
ravages of Thurstonland’s pigeon population by a glass-fronted
cabinet in which the original instructions to the attendant
are still displayed.
WE ALL WALKED TO SCHOOL (1919)
I went to Thurstonland Endowed School, which entered for
all local children from 5 to 14.
Everyone walked to school, some from 2 miles away. They all
brought a packed lunch and a paper twist of cocoa and sugar
in the winter. The infants’ teacher would boil a pan on top
of the coal stove and the steaming mugs of cocoa were passed
round the circle of eager children and then topped off with
a spoonful of condensed milk.
SPORTS AND DANCES
During the late 1920’s and early 1930’s, Stocksmoor ladies
formed a cricket team and competed for quite a few summers
in a knock out tournament against other ladies’ teams from
the Holme Valley. The regular village men’s team gave us
some money coaching and lent us their gear. Through these
matches, money was raised to swell the funds of Huddersfield
Royal Infirmary, which like many such institutions are the
time was financed through the efforts of local charities.
In the mid 1930’s, it was decided that a tennis club should
be formed in Stocksmoor. We were able to rent a plot of grass
from a local farmer and through much hard work this was transformed
into a grass court. Later, after £100 was raised by various
means, it was possible to lay a tarmac surface and buy a pavilion.
We were also able to surround the court with netting. Membership
was limited as there was only the one court. During the war
years, with the introduction of double summer time, it was
often possible to play tennis until 10 at night. Unfortunately,
after the war, membership fell as many of the young men did
not return to the village. Some of them met and married while
in the forces and found employment elsewhere. Not many people
know that a tennis club existed in Thurstonland at one time.
The court was situated in the field immediately below Moor
Top Avenue and adjacent to the cricket field. No permanent
records have been unearthed, however, tennis was played on
a private court behind the vicarage, when people from the
village were allowed to play.
BRENDA MELLOR
Potato picking allowed 20 half days off school to finish potato
picking. There were no school buses from Stocksmoor when I
started School – I had to walk. Mrs Andrew helped to get
the school bus. Just 9 0’clock and 4 o’clock buses at first.
Still at school – we took homemade rice puddings to be warmed
up for our dinners.
Miss Moorhouse lived at Kirkburton and there was no school
for several weeks in 1947 due to snow. A friend and I walked
to the Co-op in Thurstonland to shop for people in Stocksmoor.
Miss Moorhouse once washed my mouth out with soap and water
because I said a swear word.
Several evacuees came to Stocksmoor. We went into the cellar
if there was an air raid. The day war broke out my mum wouldn’t
let me go to Sunday School. Evacuees came from Sheffield
as well as the London area.
The Fire Service Post was in a garage where Audrey Taylor
lives, my dad was a special fireman, he had to sleep in the
garage if he was on duty.
In the middle 50’s before 1955, most mornings, my dad went
to fetch wagonloads of coal from Grimethorpe Colliery. I
remember it was November time because of the fog, don’t remember
the reason as coal and coke were delivered by goods train
to Stocksmoor station. Dad worked for Vernon Hirst and Walter
Noble, he got £1.10s a week when he started and got married
in 1932.
Joyce Booth and I walked to Kirkburton once a month to the
baby clinic at Shelley Lane, for the babies to be weighed,
etc. I took David, Joyce took Andrew, we left Brian with
my mum on the way down, Joyce left her girls with her mum-in-law.
We made a day of it having a fish and chip dinner and taking
them to my Aunties in Kirkburton.
Mobile clinic came to the village when Nicola was a baby.
THE FEAST (Amy Jackson's Recollections)
Thurstonland Feast was an event to be looked forward to from
the minute we’d finished our last Easter Egg. The weeks were
counted off on the calendar and Whitsun went by almost unnoticed.
The week before the event we had our new clothes, and houses
were thoroughly cleaned from attic to cellar, curtains were
washed and re-hung and then began the big ‘bake-in’.
‘Feast Loaves’ and rich fruit cakes were made first so they
would have time to ‘come to’. Baking took place for two days
so there would be a laden table on Feast Saturday and Sunday.
Every house in the village would have it’s quota of visitors;
aunts, uncles, cousins and friends. They didn’t have to be
invited, they just came.
For the schoolchildren the big moment came when the chug of
the Steam Engine could be heard coming up Greenside. At the
first sound, necks were craned in competition to see who could
spot the engine first as whispers spread round the classroom
“____ feast’s coming – I can hear the engine – “.
At playtime the more daring children would dash to the site
of the fair, which was in Mr Holmes’ field next to the vicarage
.On the Saturday the ‘schoolfeast’ took place. This took
the form of two processions through the village – one by Sunday
School scholars from the church and one from the chapel.
These were headed by two separate bands and there was great
rivalry between the scholars of each faction.
At 2pm the processions set off from their starting points
and walked round the village, stopping at various points to
sing various hymns, which had been carefully rehearsed for
several weeks before. Hymn sheets were handed out among those
who gathered along the way.
After going their separate ways, the two bands and singers
would meet half way up the village for the final hymn before
dispersing to the separate schools to be served with tea.
Then followed an hour of quiet as children ate at their schools
and visitors gathered round tables in their relative’s houses.
At 6pm the village came alive again as the respective bands
assembled in the fields allotted to them, and played selections.
The Wesleyan Chapel hired Hepworth Band and their venue was
in the field at the back of Lancaster Cottages. Whilst the
church had the Mirfield Military Band and played their music
in the field at the back of what was Mr Disney’s farm.
Later on in the evening it was all the ‘fun of the fair’.
Both children and parents, aunts and uncles all vied with
each other as to who could win the most coconuts and glass
dishes, who could eat most brandy snaps, hot mushy peas or
fried “chats”. The day you were big enough to ride on the
“chair-o-planes” was a big day in your life but swings, roundabouts
and everything else at the fair were greatly enjoyed by both
young and old.
Sunday was the day of the ‘sing’. For this, a large tiered
platform was erected in the cricket field. Singers and musicians
came from far and wide to participate in the ‘Thurstonland
Feast Sing’. The conductor was a well known local music teacher
named Edred Booth and the ‘Sing’ was known to be the finest
in the area. The music consisted of selections from various
oratories interspersed with hymns, and it was a very inspiring
sound to hear all those voices raised in ‘And the Glory’ from
Handel’s ‘Messiah’.
An enclosure was provided for those who could afford to pay
half a crown, but the rest just put their sixpence or shilling
collection in a wood and canvas receptacle at the gateway.
For teenage young ladies it was a real fashion show, new clothes
were worn even if it was blazing hot and feet were killing
you in new shoes. Tea was then served in the school for the
musicians and visitors who had no relatives in the college.
Monday night was well known as Ladies Night. Husbands,
boyfriends and brothers treated the ladies to rides on chair-o-planes
and won trophies at hoop – la stalls, shooting galleries and
coconut shies. The merrymaking went on till midnight and
then later in the evening, the more daring the young men got,
in daring each other as to who could swing the highest or
twist the chairs on the roundabout most.
After that came the dismantling of the fairground equipment,
and the children were searching the ground for pennies that
had been lost over the weekend. The departure of the steam
engine and the colourful caravans was viewed with regret by
the children, but there was always next year to look forward
to. Altogether the ‘Feast’ was an enjoyable weekend for all
the village, but above all it was a great act of witness.
There are some people in Thurstonland today who have never
known anything like it and there are many, like myself, who
regret its passing.
THURSTONLAND BIRD LIFE
The two most common species of garden birds are
the house sparrow and the starling, simply because they are
on the premises as it were. The starling is notable for his
glossy, iridescent plumage. Many people do not know what
a good mimic he is, and they could be forgiven for thinking
that a yellowhammer or a curlew were nearby.
A great favourite is the robin. Many people believe that
only the male has a red breast, but adults of both sexes do,
whereas juveniles have a speckled breast.
The blackbird is a common visitor. The cock is black with
a bright yellow beak but the hen is less spectacularly marked
being brown with a speckled breast.
Thrushes are normally seen in winter time. They are beautifully
speckled and about the same size as a blackbird. Occasionally
a mistle thrush is seen when cold. He is a bigger version
of a song thrush.
Another favourite, the blue tit, with his yellow breast, blue
head and grey back. He is extremely acrobatic and much enjoyment
can be simply by watching his performance when attacking a
string of unshelled peanuts.
The great tit is easily distinguished from the blue tit
by size and markings. He is slightly bigger and has a bold
black head and breast to go with his yellow and grey plumage.
The wren is also seen. This tiny bird has a remarkably loud
song in comparison with his size and is the smallest of garden
birds normally seen.
This last severe winter, three visitors pleased me. Firstly
tree-sparrows – distinguished from the house sparrow by chocolate
brown heads and a black spot on a white background on either
side of the head. Secondly a bullfinch. He is regarded as
a pest by fruit farmers but he is a very beautiful pest with
a bright pink breast and black, grey and white elsewhere.
Thirdly the chaffinch, with pinkish breast, blue grey head
and black rump with white wing bars. These birds are not
often seen in gardens, though fairly common elsewhere.
The foregoing was written in the ‘70’s. Since then more
and more people have become interested in wildlife and particularly
birds. They have encouraged birds into their gardens by providing
food so we have a wider variety of visitors than we used to
do. People now know what they are looking at in their gardens
and while out walking or on holiday.
In the township of Thurstonland I have seen more than 50
species of birds-there may be more I have not been able to
identify. We are lucky in that we have 4 different habitats
in the area – open fields, heathland, woodland and nature
gardens. Each habitat, of course, has its own inhabitants,
too numerous to list in a short article like this. Get out
there with a decent pair of binoculars – 8 by 40 or, my preference
7 by 50, a good identification book and have a good look!
CHILDHOOD IN WARTIME IN THE PARISH OF
THURSTONLAND
In 1939 Stocksmoor was just a hamlet where everyone
knew and cared for everyone else. The grown-ups met and chatted
while waiting for the train or for one of the two buses of
the day. The ladies would meet in ‘The Shop’, diligently
run by Mr and Mrs W Charlesworth – rationing was a serious
business. The men of course had their discussions in the
pub, ably run by Mrs Roebuck, and where we children had our
Christmas parties.
The war came, but our lives as children were idyllic. We
had the fields and woods to roam, looking for birds’ nests,
fishing in the streams, making ‘dens’ in the woods. Visits
to the many small farms where we ‘helped’ to feed the cows
and chickens; turning the churn; collecting the eggs; watching
Fred and Arthur milk the cows by hand and being given a crafty
squirt of milk when we least expected it. Riding the haycart
– oh! The delicious smell of newly mown hay. Playing in
the barn, jumping into the hay from a high window. Summer
days were gloriously long, warm and sunny due to double summer
time. We had a weeks holiday each October for potato picking,
which we diligently did and were paid for our labours – the
joy of earning sixpence.
The winters were harsh. We had a kaleidoscope of weather
– fog-ice snow, heavy falls, then the snowplough, pulled by
horses, turned out. We children made ice-slides and snowhouses
and loved every minute.
We attended the Thurstonland Endowed Church School travelling
by bus which our local councillor had made possible. In the
infants’ room was a blackleaded stove with an oven and surrounded
by a huge fireguard. Along one wall was a fitted cupboard
which contained ‘Special’ toys to be used only on ‘Special’
occasions. We were shown these treasures but never played
with them.
They were reserved for upset children or to help to settle
evacuees. Miss Moorhouse, our teacher, was the most wonderful
of teachers. To our eyes, elderly, but she was superb. The
lessons she taught, the moral message she gave, her influence
is with me today nearly sixty years on.
The war ended, out came the bunting and Union Jacks; a bonfire
was prepared and a special tea. Front gardens were planted
with lobelia, alyssum and geraniums so that they could reflect
their patronism. No longer did we have to carry our gas masks
or be careful with the blackout. Such joy and thanksgiving
at church and in school – we were quite intoxicated by happiness-----and
now, the evacuees gone, we children – scattered in pursuit
of careers and marriage. Some have died. A few of us remain
here – close to our roots.
THE TANYARD GHOST (A TRUE TALE)
Sometime in the 18th century the Old
Tannery was built and provided work for the village people.
One day one of them went for a lunchtime drink in one of the
local pubs (of which there were three at the time). He returned
to work, probably the worst for wear, and unfortunately fell
into the tan pit and died.
The tannery closed in 1910 and , until 1960, the building
was used as a barn. Since that date windows were put into
the large arches and the building converted into a house.
To take advantage of the views, the living accommodation is
upstairs and the bedrooms downstairs. Outside, a large stone
slab was placed over the tan pit.
Since that time occupants of the house have heard unaccountable
noises. Footsteps go up the external stairs in the middle
of the night, continue through closed doors and cross what
is now the sitting room floor. A chair is heard being dragged
across the floor and the footsteps halt when they reach the
place where the hides used to be hung. Earlier in the evening,
footsteps can be heard crunching through the sand outside,
but there is no-one to be seen.
These manifestations seem to be the strongest around the 23rd
and the 24th of the month, especially when the
weather is wild, or when the house has been left unoccupied
for a few days. It seems more possible that this is the ghost
of the poor tanner who died so tragically.
THE CHURCH
In the southeast corner of what is now the churchyard
a Chapel of Ease was built and completed in 1810. it was
built by subscription from the people of Thurstonland which
included Church of England, Wesleylans and Independents.
Unfortunately, differences between the sects caused the Wesleylans
and Independents to withdraw in 1834 when the chapel of ease
came under the patronage of the Vicar of Kirkburton.
In 1864, negotiations by the Curate of Thurstonland resulted
in the acquisition of an acre of ground adjoining the chapel
as a site for a church and graveyard. The foundation stone
for the new church was laid by the Countess of Dartmouth on
26th July 1869. The new church was consecrated
on 3rd October 1870 by the Bishop of Ripon. The
Chapel of Ease was later demolished. The cost of a building
in the Geometric Decorated Style consisting of Chancel, nave,
organ chamber, south porch and a 57 foot high tower with a
stone spire of 52 feet containing a clock and one bell. The
east window was given by the parishioners.
The font was given by Mrs Benstead of Lockwood Rectory;
the communion plate was given by Mrs Bill of Storthes Hall;
the sanctuary chairs were given by the Rev’d G Dalton of Kirkburton;
the hymn books, prayer books and cushions were given by Mr
Joseph Hirst, J.P., of Wilshaw. He also made a generous donation
to the building fund providing he could see the spire from
his land. The organ is a rare Kirkland Jardine and is over
100 years old. It was restored in 1990.
The graveyard contains many paupers graves from Storthes
Hall.
During World War II the vicarage cellar was used as a sort
of communal bomb shelter.
In the earlier part of this century children from Stocksmoor
walked to and from church 4 times every Sunday in their Sunday
best clothes which had to be changed for workaday clothes
each time they went home. One lady, a former organist, was
presented with a gift of £5 from the P.C.C. when she got married.
That £5 bought her 3 articles, one of them being a splendid
bedspread.
To celebrate the centenary in 1970 the ladies of the P.C.C.
made new altar frontal in white, red and green. They also
replaced the door and choir stall curtains with gold velvet
hangings and new seat and floor coverings for the choir stalls.
The 1970’s and 1980’s saw the activities at the church at
a low ebb. Congregations were often counted in single figures
and even a congregation of two was not unknown. Communion
services were held once every two weeks with a Mothers Union
Communion being held on a Wednesday morning once a month.
Sunday schools would be started up but would then fade away
after a period. Young wives groups met occasionally. It
was altogether a difficult period and the church was kept
going by a small group of faithful worshippers to whom a huge
debt of gratitude is owed.
In 1986 the west end of the church was remodelled internally
to provide a church room together with a kitchen, toilet and
storeroom. At the same time central heating was installed
and electrical rewiring and redecoration carried out.
Since the church was built there have been 15 incumbents
– the present one being the Rev’d Sean Robertshaw who also
has responsibility for Christchurch, New Mill and St. Andrews,
Thongsbridge.
A SAD OCCASION
UNITED ANCIENT ORDER OF DRUIDS
Prince Albert Lodge 387
40 The Village
Thurstonland
Nr Huddersfield
On Monday March 26th, 1979, the Secretary, treasurer
and Trustees of the Prince Albert Lodge 387, United Ancient
Order of Druids, met to prepare the Final Balance Sheet and
so wind up the Lodge, which was the wish of the present members.
Founded in 1851, it’s aims were, for a small weekly contribution
to help members who were sick. Also a funeral grant was paid
on the death of a member his wife, or even a second wife,
but no provision was made for a third or subsequent wives.
The grant was also payable on the death of his widow.
The ceremonial sword, which was no doubt wielded bravely
by a trooper in the Napoleonic wars and which initiated many
new members into the Lodge, has been presented to the cricket
club and will be hung above the bar in the Tea Room. We hope
that it will be admired for many years to come by would be
Geoff Boycotts and Freddie Trumans, or whoever is the hero
of the time, as they munch their bag of crisps and drink their
bottles of pop.
The centenary of the Lodge was celebrated by a day’s outing
when 3 buses packed with members and wives left for Skegness.
On the return journey at a pub outside Doncaster only 2 buses
arrived, the third driver getting lost. However, he managed
to find his way back to Thurstonland, so a good time was had
by all. The assets of the lodge were shared between 11 widows
and 49 members.
STUMPED FOR A TITLE
The sun shone down in torrents
From a clear and cloudless sky,
The first eleven were batting
And I was standing by,
Tom Freeland was at the wicket,
He smote with might and main
Till his middle stump went spinning,
Then he toddled back again.
John Asquith took up the running,
He gave a sudden roar,
The ball removed his knee-cap,
Said the umpire “Leg-before”.
Then Oldham, Shaw and Hinchliffe
Went in to try their luck,
But each came back defeated,
And each one got a duck.
John Paterson came to where I was standing
With tears in his eyes he pleaded
“Arise and put your pads on,
the last hope of the side”.
On hundred runs were needed,
For Thurstonland to win the match;
I pulled, I drove, I cut,
Till the bowlers fell down exhausted,
And the fieldsmen cried ‘Enough!’
Then, “For goodness sake stop snoring”,
Said my wife in deep disgust,
And she shook my shoulder with vigour
And my lovely dream went bust.

FIFTY YEARS AGO
Last Saturday was the fiftieth anniversary of
the marriage of John Walker-White, of Thurstonland, and
Hannah Maria Jenkinson, of Shepley. Mr. White in an interview,
stated that 50 years ago he and his wife were married according
to the simple rites that then existed. They met at Shepley,
and accompanied by two friends, proceeded on foot to the
parish church at Kirkburton, where they were married. They
are both now 71 years of age, and have 5 sons and a daughter
and 8 grandchildren. Since their marriage they have lived
mostly in Thurstonland, and have occupied the house in which
they now live for 30 years.
Mr White is a farmer at present but at first when he was
married he was a handloom weaver. Those were the good old
days, he remarked, when men wove at nights in order to be
able to go hunting during the day. He stated that he remembers
there being over 20 donkeys in Thurstonland, of which he owned
one. This he used for fetching the yarn from Hoylehouse Mills,
Linthwaite, where it was woven into cloth and then returned
to the mills. The journey from Thurstonland to Linthwaite
and back used to take about 8 hours.
It was not a common thing to travel by train in those days.
The compartments were long and used to seat 50 passengers.
Mr White on one occasion walked over Mytholmbridge viaduct
just before its completion when a single line only was being
used. Six hours afterwards the erection collapsed. A train
was due and a catastrophe averted by a friend of Mr White’s
who ran to Brockholes and stopped the train in the nick of
time.
Mr White said that he had been told that he went to school
for a while, but the period was so short that he himself had
no recollection of it. In fact, he commenced work as a bobbin
winder when 7 years old. Mrs White’s earliest recollection
is of her mother telling her that her uncle had had a horse
drowned in the Holmfirth flood.
The old couple were patients of Dr. Moorhouse, of Stoney
bank, who wrote “The Graveship of Holmes” and “History of
the Parish of Kirkburton”. They remember Dr. Moorhouses love
of riding and they grey horse of which he was so fond that
he had a tombstone erected to its memory.
WORLD SCOUT JAMBOREE 1979 - BY ALAN
EARLY
On Sunday, 15 July all 32 members of the International
Troop West Yorkshire congregated at Heath Grammar School,
Halifax with the 4 leaders. After the press photographs had
been taken we left by coach, arriving in London later that
afternoon. We stayed in Baden-Powell house for the night.
The following day we flew from Gatwick just before midday
in a Boeing 747. during the flight we had two meals and saw
a couple of films. We arrived at Dallas about 4pm due to
the 5 hour time difference. Sweltering in the heat we boarded
an air conditioning coach with green tinted windows. We tore
through Dallas, many of us taking photos of the impressive
buildings, down the highway towards Camp Tahuaha, near Temple,
where we spent our first night in America, in tents.
The next day we were split into groups of 2 and met the
first family we would be staying with. Over the next 8 days
we stayed with 3 different families in different areas of
Texas. Jonathon Black and I were paired up and the first
family we stayed with, the Labajis took us to Austin, the
state capital and inner Space Caverns. We then moved on to
Copperas Cove, near Fort Hood which is one of the biggest
military bases in the world, which we visited. Finally we
went to McGregor where we stayed with the Allisons and we
were both given a cowboy hat while we stayed there.
On Tuesday the 24th, much to our disappointment
we left Texas and travelled by coach through the night to
Philmont Scout Ranch, New Mexico; 200 square miles of scout-owned
territory inhabited by bears, rattlesnakes, lizards and locusts.
On our first day there, we locked away all our luggage not
needed for hiking and planned our 12 day hike. The next day
we set off, and within 10 minutes we met our first rattlesnake,
our leader was just about to tread on it. During that 12
days we went through camps such as Devil’s Wash Basin, Clark’s
Fork, Cypher’s Mine, Red Hills and Shaeffers Pass. We did
various activities, including pole climbing, scaling the Tooth
of Time, Black Mountain and the biggest of them all Mount
Baldy.
We hiked back into the main camp on Sunday 5 August. We
left the same night, after the campfire and once again had
an overnight drive back into Texas, where, at Wichita Falls
we got bad news; the plane home had lost an engine on the
runway. Instead of staying we had to rush to Dallas for a
½ hour flight to Houston, from where we flew home on a DC10.
Due to the time lag, last night lasted about 4 hours and we
were all shattered on arriving at Gatwick.
We then got bad news that our luggage was still in America
so we spent the day touring Brighton and Bognor Regis and
returned to Gatwick for our luggage about 7pm. Finally, we
travelled back to Halifax, arriving there at two in the morning
to meet our parents.
A GREAT THRILL
The first motor car in Stocksmoor was an open tourer
with a canvas top. It was owned by four men jointly and was
known as “Wheel a Piece”. One Sunday one of the sharers took
my brother and me out for a ride. It was a great thrill.
We were rounding a corner on a rough road and one of the wheels
came off. We had to walk home from the Red Lion at Jackson
Bridge back to Stocksmoor.
THE FARMER
John Holmes was born in 1917 at Farnley near Otley and lived
at Hasling Hall Farm. His family moved to Thurstonland in
1921, their household effects were moved by a wagon and some
by horse and cart. The horses were so exhausted on reaching
their new home, that they had to lie down for two days. The
farming implements and cattle were moved by train to Stocksmoor.
Their new home was Manor House Farm which is next door to
the Rose and Crown. He then commenced school at Thurstonland.
When Mr Holmes was a child there were only three cars in Thurstonland,
the butcher’s van, the parson’s motor, and Albert Gill’s car,
which because he was the undertaker could easily be converted
into a hearse.
“AH WERE FAIR CAPPED”
….said local landlady Elsie Vile after being
given surprise gifts of flowers, a teasmade and a cheque
for £100 by regulars at the Rose and Crown. They were to
commemorate 20 years of regular service by Elsie and John
on the 18th March. A memorable vote of thanks
was made by Max Turner – an intellectual giant and Conservative
and a week later, beer and spirits were on sale at 1960
prices together with an excellent cold buffet. With the
£100 Elsie bought a hostess trolley with an automatic pressure
cooker. Landlord, John Vile said, to our reporter that
night “from the amount of business you give me, Wings, you’re
lucky to have your press card with you tonight”.
WHIFFS OF NOSTALGIA
Mrs Clara Harrison, my great aunt, used to live
at Scar End, at the bottom of Thurstonland Bank, in the end
house. She then moved to Ireland with her daughter, but having
spent about 80 years in the area before she left, she has
some interesting memories of her life hereabouts.
In her childhood she can recall the water was of course
not piped to houses, but had to be brought from troughs and,
until recently, there was a large one at the bottom of the
bank which supplied them with most of their needs. However,
drinking water had to be brought from the troughs at the end
of ‘Occy Lane’. They had a water carrier on wheels – with
a brake! Another trek up the bank had to be made for yeast
which was bought from one of the village shops. She can also
remember the arrival of “Th’weetindob” – a horse drawn ‘Wee-Tin’.
I don’t know whether this ever reached Thurstonland, but certainly
at the bottom of the bank buckets of urine were worth saving.
Ha’penny a bucket was the going rate. The cart came from
the local mill and urine was used for it’s ammonia content
in the scouring of wood.
In Auntie Clara’s mother’s day, possibly in the 1880’s a
number of women from Thurstonland worked at the silk mills
in Meltham. They walked to work and had to leave home early.
It was a tiring, dirty walk and mud gathered on their patterns.
They walked with arms linked and for a good reason taking
it in turns to close their eyes and rest while being swept
along and guided by their friends.
TWO THURSTONLAND GEMS
Scene 1: The Rose and Crown Taproom.
AH, aged 79, was engaged to be married to Mrs.Q.
Ensued the following conversation.
HC: I’ear tha’s bahn’t to get wed ageean, Arthur.
AH: Aye, lad, Easter tahm.
HC: What’s up? ‘As ter getten ‘er in t’ family way?
Scene 2: Ash Farm yard.
Well known local butcher, TG, knocks on the kitchen door.
The following conversation took place:
TG: Nah then, Alan, tha bloody dog’s just bitten ma leg
AD: Aye, an’ if this bloody leg tastes owt lahk thi mate he’ll
nooan bath thi twahce!

THE MAIN ROAD THROUGH THURSTONLAND
How many times have you passed the guided post
at Farnley and wondered why railing surround it? It is probably
one of the best preserved guide posts in the district, and
it provides a clue to forgotten routes and lines of traffic.
It even had sundial on top that has long since disappeared,
as have many stoops – used for roadmaking or someone’s gatepost.
It is there because in 1698 an Act of Parliament said that
‘stoops must be sett up in Crosse highways with the name of
the next Market Town to which each of the joining highways
leede’, and in 1733 they had to be set up on ‘ Moor and Commons
where intelligence was difficult to be had. Later, the distance
to towns had to be marked.
The post is on the old Huddersfield to Penistone Road, and
after leaving Huddersfield it went through Almondbury via
Almondbury Bank and continued to follow the present No. 18
bus route to Farnley Tyas. Here it turned right along Farnley
Moor and after passing the stoop it avoided Thurstonland by
going along Greenside, turning right into Broad Lane and Browns
Knoll Road, and then via the road into Stocksmoor, where it
went through Stone Wood and into Shepley. Thereafter the
route followed much of the present route into Penistone.
This is how the surveyor describes the main Penistone Road
coming from Farnley on ‘May ye 12th, 1719.’
“Descend Farnley Moor End. Blackhouse House on a bearing
south at 30 poles distant. Thurstonland on a bearing SW 22
degrees. Descend Leasurely. Leave ye Moor and Close on both
sides. Descends again. A rd. on ye lift to high Burton.
At ye bottom, cross a Rill which runs into Phinny Beck at
about a mile downward. Ascend a Hill open on ye Left. At
ye top and descends”.
He was now at ‘Moor Bottom’, or West View or ‘them-there-white-houses-down-there’.
One of these was once the ‘Druids Arms’ and a smithy. Near
Butts Farm there is another post, set up later.
We live in what was once a busy neck of the woods. As well
as the nearby Penistone Road, the main Richmond-Halifax-Huddersfield-Kirkburton-London
Parkhorse road went via St Helen’s Gate, Almondbury to Kirkburton
via Woodsome Hall.
THURSTONLAND CRICKET CLUB
Cricket at Thurstonland was first played in 1874
approximately 4 years after the present Church of St. Thomas
was built.
The earliest traceable scorecard is for a game played on the
6th May 1876, against a team from New Mill. It
was played at Thurstonland on the first of the 3 grounds the
Club has had during its existence.
The first was held on the left past the Post Office on Hawcliffe
Lane. It was not long before a move was made to the Club’s
second ground at Disney’s Field, near the road junction in
the centre of the village. This was the club’s home until
1900 when the move was made to its present headquarters on
Marsh Hall Lane.
It is interesting to note that quite a number of names playing
in the late 1800’s –early 1900’s are still around locally,
i.e.. Pontefract, Thewlis, Gill, Charlesworth, Mitchell and
Booth, indeed three players with the latter name play for
the club toady, some 124 years later.
Another of these names-Charlie Mitchell-is associated with
a nice little aside. Charlie Mitchell was the founder of
a local motor engineering firm at the turn of the century
and had one of the few motorcars in the district. During
the years leading up to 1914 he was able to persuade a number
of talented players from other areas to turn out for Thurstonland.
Among these players was a gifted slow spin bowler from Goole.
A railway employee, he travelled by train to Goole to Wakefield
where he was picked up by Charlie Mitchell in his car. Rumour
had it that in addition to his cricket tackle, his bag often
contained tobacco smuggled from the docks in Goole and sold
in Thurstonland.
In 126 years there have been many ups and downs and good
years and bad, the most successful being the 1980’s particularly
1987 when Thurstonland won the 1 XI Allsop Cup competition
for the third year running and both 1st and 2nd
Elevens were league champions, a record that still stands
in the Huddersfield Central League today.
There have been many local characters whose tales have been
passed down in the club over the years. This one can stand
for all of them. Apparently Herbert Walter was a ferocious
hitter of the ball, he had the misfortune in an accident to
lose the finger of his right hand so anyone fielding in close
was never quite sure whether he would be called upon to catch
the ball, or the bat, as it occasionally flew from ‘Erbs’
grip after a particularly big hit. In spite of his handicap
he was no mean performer and thoroughly enjoyed his cricket.
He must typify all that’s best in village cricket – long may
it continue.
SMALL SCHOOLS BEST, SAY EXPERTS
Small is beautiful, say Thurstonland parents about
their village school – one of the tiniest in Kirklees. They
are not alone in that view. Two Canadian professors of Education
have come up with a research conclusion that small schools
like Thurstonland are not only merely beautiful – but best.
Dr E.L. Edmonds and Dr Frederick Bessai picked out 5 schools
in Kirklees as part of a survey which also looked at small
village schools in Cheshire and Prince Edward Island.
Kirklees assistant education officer Mr. Ian McMillan said:
“It’s nice to receive the compliment, but in Kirklees we have
always recognised that small schools are extremely valuable.”
In Kirklees there are about 6 primary and junior schools.
Thurstonland’s head, Mr George Anderton, has 2 teachers –
one on a part time basis – to help him run the 2 classroom
school which has 25 infants and 22 juniors.
INDUSTRIES AND OCCUPATIONS
Thurstonland is named in the Doomsday Book along
with Cartworth, Fulstone, Wooldale and Hepworth and is described
as ‘Waste’.
Over the years the principal occupations of the township
of Thurstonland have been hand loom weaving and agriculture.
It is noticeable that, apart from Mytholmbridge, there are
no mills in Thurstonland. As far back as at least the 16th
century there was both a corn mill and a fulling mill at Mytholmbridge.
The mills were owned by the Lord of the Manor and, in common
with other estates, they were the only mills available to
the tenant farmers and clothiers. Milling and fulling being
essential to the respective industries, the mill owners could
dictate their own terms. For some reason no other mills were
ever built in Thurstonland even though in later years there
was no legal restriction. This is probably why handloom weaving
continued here longer than in most other areas.
Evidence is still visible of the weaving industry in Thurstonland
e.g. the numerous windows in the upper rooms of the cottages:
the stables for the donkeys beneath the entrance to the cottages:
the wuzzing holes in the barn at Manor Farm; and of course
the still plentiful supply of the raw material – wool.
The agriculture industry has changed radically under the
influence of scientific/mechanical/political pressures over
the years. Thurstonland has not been spared those changes
and the following figures show the stark result:-
1851 30 farms
1936 18 farms
Today 4 farms plus a few smallholdings and equestrian units.
Other important industries included coal mining. Now defunct
but at various times there have been some 28 pits in the area.
Most of these have been small drift mines of short duration.
But overall mining was big enough to warrant a plate road
which ran from Top of the Hill down to Brockholes with gas
lamps lighting the road the whole way.
After the coming of the railway to Stocksmoor, in 1850, many
changes were made. One local farmer began to send his milk
in churns to Huddersfield by train. People were able to travel
to Huddersfield, Holmfirth and Meltham, and so could take
up a variety of occupations, such as engineering, work in
the chemical industry, shops or textile mills outside their
immediate area.
At the nearby village of Thurstonland, a brickworks was opened
for the manufacture of bricks for lining the many tunnels
required on the route from Huddersfield to Sheffield. There
was also a small tannery and a blacksmith.
In the local Hamlet of Thunderbridge, a water-driven corn
grinding mill was set up to meet the needs of local farmers.
There was also a small works making ammonia, which was used
by local housewives for washing blankets.
During the 1930’s depression, local unemployed people were
set to work building sewers. Many had previously worked in
the local textile industry where jobs had dwindled.
Quarrying too has been an important industry. A number of
stone quarries are recorded in the area with the Longlet Quarry
at Runlet End still working in the 20th century.
Clay too has been quarried with Thurstonland Brick Co. being
a sizeable business. The brickwork’s chimney was a local
landmark for many years.
In the 1850’s smaller industries in Thurstonland included
3 blacksmiths, joiner/wheelwright. Maltster, 2 masons, 3
shoemakers, 2 Millwrights, Manufacturing Chemist, Miller,
2 Carriers, Constable surveyor, 7 shopkeepers plus the Co-op,
2 public houses, Boarding Kennels, Coal merchant, Manufacturing
chemist.
Today’s list? Joiner/undertaker, builder, shopkeeper-postmaster,
2 public houses, Boarding kennels and dry-stone waller.
With the present trend towards the home-working computers
internet etc. we may find the number of smaller industries
increasing in the future. Perhaps the wheel will turn the
full circle.
“ PLUS ÇA CHANGE……….”
‘Coin Clipping’ is said to date back to the 13th
century. By the end of the 17th century the practice
was so widely indulged that an Act of Parliament was required
in 1698 to put a stop to it. Coinage was called in and the
effect of clipping was found to have cost £2.2 million was
a disaster and a window tax was introduced to offset some
of the loss.
Towards the end of the 17th century there were
many cases of “clipping and coining” but few relating to respectable
people – and clergy, too.
The Rev’d Edmund Robinson’s claim to fame was that he was
a counterfeiter of some repute. A history of the area says
of him, “there was an air of mystery in his general behaviour,
in consequence of which he was vulgarly supposed to be deeply
imbued with the black art.” Actually what he was doing in
the huge cellar underneath Bank End was “Makin’ brass.” Assisted
by his 18 year old son, he carried on his work with “diligence,
secrecy and success” for some years without suspicion. “He
got a deal of money; people knew not how,” until of course,
the gaff was blown and he and his son were sent for trial
to York Castle. Not all of the people involved in the enterprise
were caught. “There was a tunnel from Bank End to a building
in one of the fields, and while the parson was being arrested
at one end, others were escaping at the other”, it is said.
Mr Robinson was found guilty and executed sometime around
1690, but the son was reprieved on the grounds of his age
and being under the influence of the parson. Ironically enough
he was sent to London to work at the Royal Mint where he stayed
to make a legitimate fortune!
THE PACE EGG PLAY – 1980
I first came into contact with the play when I
saw it performed by the boys of Calder High School in the
streets of Hebden Bridge and surrounding villages at Easter
time. The Hebden Bridge version has only about 8 characters.
When I was at Ilkley, I found a version of a mummers play
which I recognised as having much the same plot as the Pace
Egg Play, i.e. a fight between ‘evil’ and ‘good’, between
‘saints’ and ‘foreign warriors’, representing the holy wars
perhaps. The Christian mummers play had about 20 characters
including Father Christmas.
Our present production is a mixture of the other two versions
and involves as many characters as there are juniors available.
This year, we did not need a pantomime horse, for instance!!
One benefit of learning the words of a play of this nature
is that the characters become familiar with each other’s parts
and so become interchangeable. This year, we had two different
fools, two Saladins and two dragons. If any character forgets
his lines, then the whole company is to prompt him by saying
his part. If a combatant breaks his sword, then he is to
stop fighting at once and shout out the impromptu line ‘A
sword, a sword, give me a sword’. A supply of spares is carried.
This year, we have performed at the Rose and Crown, the
Clothiers Arms, the Middle School and Brockholes Junior School,
in addition to our home fixture in the school yard. Collections
at the first two public performances totalled £32, which just
covered the cost of the production this year. If we are asked
to do it again next year, we should be able to collect for
a charity.
ONE OFF BAND HERE TO STAY
The Wafentuffen band was formed by Thurstonland
and Farnley Tyas schoolchildren especially for a silver jubilee
gala in 1977, but people demanded it should become a permanent
feature.
Response from villagers as the band formed part of the weekend’s
gala procession through Farnley Tyas, Thurstonland and Stocksmoor
was overwhelming, Mr George Anderton, head of Thurstonland
Junior School, said: “We were amazed at the reaction. The
children from my school and Farnley Tyas Junior School formed
the band just for one occasion. A permanent band was neither
our aim nor our intention.” Mr Anderton said that in light
of the band’s success they may start playing at other local
functions. “Already we have 2 invitations in the pipeline.
It is nearing the end of term, but we may continue the band
next summer.” He added. “The children really enjoyed themselves.
Part of the fun was dressing up in red white and blue.”
The name Waffentuffen was chosen because it is though to mean
beating and blowing.
THURSTONLAND CURIOSITIES
Although the only pubs now in existence are the Rose and Crown
in Thurstonland and the Clothiers Arms in Stocksmoor, other
pubs and clubs existed in the area in years gone by. The
New Inn – now No. 60 The Village – and the Druids Arms at
West View were both well patronised, as was the club – now
number 72 The Village – which was a non-political men’s club.
From the air the village has changed very little over the
years. There have been no major developments since 1966 within
what is now a conservation area. Development in the area
has been confined to the conversion of derelict barns and
the renovation of dilapidated houses/cottages – some of them
dating back to the 17th century and now listed
buildings. Many properties are still occupied by people born
in the village or who have been there many years, but in recent
years “outsiders” have moved in. They have been largely professional
people and there has been a subtle change in the village.
Few many now actually work here and in that sense it is becoming
more or less a dormitory village.
The village has not been immune to scandal. Some time ago
a certain lady had become acquainted with a boyfriend through
the medium of a lonely hearts club. Eventually it transpired
that the boyfriend was married but had murdered his wife by
poisoning her. The story was featured in the News of the
World and was known as “The Green Bottle Story”.
One of our senior citizens attended the village school as
a little girl. At the time there were 92 pupils in attendance
– all sitting at desks in straight rows, all day, and under
very strict discipline.
For many years a farmhouse and a cottage in Top O’the Hill
were left derelict, the owner living in the Hemsworth area.
Both properties have been renovated and extended in recent
years, but shortly before that the farmhouse was occupied
by a team from Leeds University making a documentary film.
For several weeks a friendly neighbour spent quite a lot of
her time making cups of tea for them. She is not quite sure
what happened to the film!
Travelling down Thurstonland Bank, a house on the right
hand side of the road stands in quite extensive grounds and
is known as Bank End Green. It is now quite a nice looking
property, but in years gone by it was owned by John Henry
Heywood who was a proprietor of a large department store in
Huddersfield. The grounds of Bank End Green in those days
were a by-word locally for the magnificence of its floral
displays and the general public were allowed to walk through
the gardens to admire.
Donkeys have an interesting place in the story of Thurstonland.
Until the 20th century transport was a difficult
problem. Even with the arrival of the canals and railways
isolated communities such as Thurstonland had problems transporting
heavy, bulky loads. The cottage weavers in particular had
problems. A clothier could walk, say, from Thurstonland to
the Cloth Hall in Huddersfield with a length of cloth on his
back, but other transport was needed for larger loads. Donkeys
was chosen as the beast of burden. It was said that there
were more donkeys than people in Thurstonland, but one recorded
instance is of a wedding where 42 donkeys were in attendance.
The name Charlie Mitchell crops up from time to time. He
was one of a limited number of owners of motor cars, and he
enjoyed hill climb racing. The sport was carried on between
Holme Village and Holme Moss. On one occasion he was reported
to have beaten Malcolm Campbell of “Bluebird” fame. It was
whispered that he may have “doctored” the track but whether
he did or not, he was a remarkable man and lived into the
eighties.
Before the days of television, leisure time was taken up
with all sorts of activities. One such in Thurstonland was
a course of instruction in the art of cake icing. One of
the pupils was a man noted for his dirty hands. His “grey”
icing became quite famous.
Over the last 20 years or so many houses in the village
have been “done up”. One in particular was originally two
small cottages, one of which was exceptionally small. A lady
lived there by herself, her name was Isobella. She was not
married but had a son and daughter, both of whom had grown
up and deserted her and never came back to visit. In the
house all the furniture she possessed was a small table and
chair, together with two sacks sewn to make a carpet. It
was assumed that she had a bed of sorts. Her income, from
charity, was 6d per week. Every night, without fail, she
thanked God for all the things she had.
No-one seemed to know the reason why, but one lady in the
village was known to sleep every night on the settee downstairs
while her husband slept upstairs in bed. Eventually, the
husband died and was buried. It was some time afterwards
that she could bring herself to go up to the bedroom to sort
things out. On the floor under the bed she found some false
teeth. Realising they must have been her husbands, she said
to her neighbour “he’ll be missing his teeth” and went to
the grave yard, dug a hole in his grave and buried them with
him.
An elderly couple who had lived in one of the houses up
the village all their married life were well liked, good living
and very house proud, but they were not very well off. The
house was very much as it had been probably since it was built.
The lady of the house was very good at crochet and it was
used as a decoration everywhere around the windows, doors,
fireplace, everywhere. In those days sugar was delivered
to the shops in bags and the couple would collect these bags,
repeatedly wash them until they were white, and then turn
them into pillow cases, sheets etc. they were living there
when all the houses in the village acquired land from the
field at the back for gardens. Unfortunately, this couple
could not afford to put in a back door so they simply climbed
in and out of their window to reach the garden.
At one time there lived in Top O’the Hill the families Sparrow,
Swallow and Crow and in the village the families Weaver, Woollen
and Wragg. Not to be outdone three consecutive post masters
were Brown, Green and White.
With the supply of mains water into the village in the 1920’s,
bathrooms were steadily introduced into private houses, and
the use of communal bath house at the Council Office declined
in proportion. Eventually only one elderly gentleman was
left and every Friday afternoon saw him walking up the village
with the towel rolled up under his arm. Less than five minutes
later he would be seen walking back home. His constant response
to the remark that “It hadn’t taken him long” was “ you can
only wash t’outside, you can’t wash t’inside”.
Inevitably, there was the family particularly noted for
it’s fleas. A brave neighbour agreed to take a mattress to
the tip for them, carrying it on the top of his car. Travelling
up the village someone shouted to him that the mattress had
fallen off. “Oh leave it” came the reply “In a few minutes
it’ll walk off by itself”.
The new convert to Wesleylan faith, returning home from
a revival meeting, walking and leaping and praising God, starting
a well known Hymn;
At Jacob’s Well a stranger ‘Sowt’
His drooping heart to cheer
At this point he leapt over the low hedge by the side of the
footpath and landed in a cesspool, he continued singing;
But Jimmy Johnson little ‘thowt’
There were a sore-hoil theer.
After the second world war one of the members of Parliament
for Huddersfield, Mr J P W Mallalieu, was brought to dance
in Thurstonland by the Local Councillor, thinking it would
be a good way to meet some of his constituents. As they came
to the door, the doorman stopped them saying “that’ll be five
bob gentlemen”. The Councillor stepped forward to explain
that his guest was the MP for Huddersfield. The doorman said
“Oh, that’s alright then – but it’s still 5 bob”.
Thurstonland had it’s village idiot – Sneckum. He used
to make a few pence for himself collecting sticks and selling
them for firewood. Meeting one of the villagers in the street,
Sneckum asked him if he would like a bundle. “How much?”
asked the villager. “Two and Six” said Sneckum. “Alright”
said the villager “just drop ‘em off int’ yard”. Arriving
home later the villagers wife said “that was a good bundle
of sticks I’ve paid him”. To which her husband replied “Oh,
aye, so have I”,.
SUCCESS ON A PLATE
In the Easter holidays the scouts, as part of the
competition sponsored by Kentucky Fried Chicken, cleaned up
part of the footpath from Top of the Hill towards Brockholes.
Many helpers, photographers, local dignitaries and representatives
of the Thurstonland Thunderer turned up, and for 3 nights
the air was full of cries such as “you can have a drink of
lemonade when you’ve carried another sod down to the bottom,”
and bonfires of rubbish and old field burned well into the
dusk.
A really excellent job was done, and the boys won £75 prize.
Special thanks are due to Mrs Mellor for her excellent wall-top
refreshment facilities.
Other scouts groups have undertaken projects; cleaning up
rivers and villages, but our footpath clearance is a specific
task with a more obvious ‘before and after’ effect. There
have been several articles and photos in the local press,
and the council has written a pleasant letter of thanks.
The footpath is a ‘plateway’ – the long, flat stone on either
side of the central setts being the plates to carry the wheels
of the coal wagons and the setts themselves providing traction
for the horse or pony. The coal itself came from several
small coal pits or day – holes locally. There were at least
10 of these in the vicinity as well as the larger Red Gin
colliery, the mound on which the Gin stood, being still visible.
At scar End, by Round Wood there used to be a Rope Walk, obviously
significant in a mining area.
At the bottom of the ‘grass road’ near the stream are visible
remains of a day – hole, an arched stone entry to an adit.
The pathway down to Brockholes Station was formerly lit by
gas, and indication of how many people walked this way.
WESLEYLAN CHAPEL
In the Wesleyan Methodist Circuit plans in the
1790’s Thurstonland was included in the Huddersfield Circuit
which stretched from Barnsley to Saddleworth. Services were
held in cottages and Methodism certainly flourished in Thurstonland.
When the Chapel of Ease was built in 1810 Methodists, sharing
the building with other sects, had a membership of 38.
After their withdrawal from the Chapel of Ease following a
disagreement Methodists reverted to holding their services
in cottages. The foundation stone for a new chapel was laid
by Robert Jenkinson of Stocksmoor on 7th April
1836.
In the early days the chapel had no organ and it is thought
music was provided by a violinist. An organ was required
eventually but at a date unknown. However a new organ was
installed for the centenary celebrations in 1936. the site
of the chapel being so exposed caused the atmosphere within
the building to be both cold and damp, conditions which were
not helpful to the performance of the new organ. As a result
certain notes refused to play from time to time to the embarrassment
of the organist. Indeed special precautions were taken for
feast days by bringing in an organ builder the day before
to check it over.
The last wedding in the chapel was that of Mr and Mrs Edmund
Gill in December 1960. The chapel officially closed in March
1978 but it was opened up for the funeral of Mrs Gill’s mother
in May 1978. An electronic organ was borrowed especially
for the occasion. After the chapel was closed services continued
to be held for a time in the home of Mrs Collins. The chapel
building and its Sunday School remained unused until quite
recently when both were converted to private residences.
PUMPS AND WELLS
Prior to 1920 in Stocksmoor, all household water
was obtained from pumps in the yards or carried from local
wells when the springs dried up. We were the first family
in the village to have water piped into the house, and a neighbour
had the first upstairs bathroom. It had a bath and washbasin
but all the water used in it had to be handpumped from the
kitchen sink downstairs.
THURSTONLAND MOTHERS UNION
In November 1998, Thurstonland Mothers Union was
90 years old. At the preset time we have 20 members and our
new branch leader takes over the running of our M.U. in January
2000. We meet in the Church Room on the last Wednesday of
most months when we have various speakers. Every meeting
starts with a short service; we pray for members worldwide
and any ‘indoor’ members. We finish each meeting with coffee
and cakes. Indoor members are members no longer able to get
to our meetings but who still belong to the M.U.
January is always party time where we all help make a buffet
supper and play pencil and paper games. In December we have
a dinner for all church ladies at the Rose and Crown. The
church cleaning ladies are also invited as they all give up
their time to clean the church.
THE CONSERVATION AREA
On the 31st March, 1981, Thurstonland
became one of the conservation areas in Kirklees. All residents
and property owners in the conservation areas have to be aware
of the facts.
Thurstonland is blessed with many buildings of interest, and
several of these are ‘listed’ – that is placed on a list of
buildings which are of special architectural or historic interest.
These receive statutory protection but this does not imply
that the building will necessarily be preserved, but it makes
sure that the case for reservation is fully examined and any
proposed alterations must preserve the character of the buildings.
Consent for altering or demolishing must be obtained from
the local planning authority or the Secretary of State. The
penalty for not obtaining consent can be a fine of unlimited
amount, or imprisonment, or both.
WAR IN THE VILLAGE
During the war when everyone was urged to “dig for victory”,
an Allotments Association was founded in Stocksmoor Village.
It became a thriving organisation with meetings held in the
local pub and an annual show. When soldiers were billeted
at Kirkburton, they loaned a big marquee to the Association
of the annual show. One year this was erected behind the
Clothiers Arms and a dance floor was put down for entertainment
this evening.
When German bombers flew to bomb Sheffield their route lay
over the village of Stocksmoor and I remember one night when
only mother and I were at home, we were terrified as we sat
in the dark listening to the pieces of anti-aircraft shells
rattling on the farm roof.
Stocksmoor was surrounded by listening posts during the war
I used to go on the train to Shepley where the army put on
a dance and provided the band.
After the bonfire on VE day the men of the village got talking
in the Clothiers Arms over a celebratory pint. They decided
that the village needed was a village hall and a fund was
started that night. It was 28 years before their dreams were
realised and a purpose-built hall became a reality.
OFFICES OF THURSTONLAND AND FARNLEY
TYAS URBAN DISTRICT COUNCIL
The Council Offices at No.40 The Village were extensively
used for a variety of purposes. In addition to their use
as offices for council business. They served as a library
on Mondays; a communal bath house on Thursdays and Fridays;
a cash office 4 times a year where villagers paid their bills
for rates, gas, electricity, water; a store of sundry items
such as commodes, bed pans, stone hot water bottles, etc.,
which were hired out for villagers as required; a meeting
room for the Prince Albert Lodge of the United Ancient order
of Druids; public toilets and clothes handing ground for the
people of the upper part of the village. Toilets for the
people of the lower part of the village were provided in the
area now housing the garage for No.72 The Village. No 72.
now a private residence, used to be a nonpolitical club.
As council offices the building used to contain some beautiful
furniture which mysteriously disappeared when Kirklees M.C.
sold the property! The council built the council houses in
Stocksmoor and Oakes Lane – both providing good examples of
council house building.
Mr H Harker attended to residents minor ailments and injuries
for many years. You could hire such aids as a commode chair,
bed pans and bottles, rubber rings and sheets for a weekly
rent of 3d or 4d when caring for sick people in their homes.
When Mr Harker passed away these items went to the council
offices.
JUBILEE AND CORONATION
In 1935, for the Silver Jubilee of George V, a carnival procession
was held through the villages of Stocksmoor and Thurstonland.
It was a very hot day and concluded with a bonfire built on
the highest point in the area, lit by the oldest resident,
who was presented by a silver topped cane. In 1937 a bonfire
was built to celebrate the coronation of George VI. Some
malicious person lit it before the official time – despite
the fact that most of the day had been wet.
STORTHES HALL PSYCHIATRIC HOSPITAL
The first part was opened in 1904 and completed about 1908.
It was then known as ‘Storthes Hall Asylum’. It was fairly
modern in comparison with many other hospitals which had previously
been built. It had a large catchment area from Todmorden
in the West to Barnsley in the east. The number of patients
varied, at one point during and just after the Second World
War there were about 3,000 because patients had been transferred
from hospitals in Lincoln and Wakefield. In those days “Asylums”
or “Mental Hospitals” were built in the country as people
did not want to see or know them. For some unknown reason
anyone with a mental illness was looked on as a disgrace on
the family.
Storthes Hall like any other hospitals of this type, was self
sufficient, having its own farm, gardens, bake-house, laundry
and cinema. Unfortunately most of these departments were
staffed by patients and it wasn’t until the 1960’s that it
was realised that they were not economically viable. It also
had its own band; in fact one way of getting on the Nursing
Staff was if you played an instrument or excelled at football
or cricket.
The most exercise that the majority of patients had was walking
around the outside of the wards, or a couple of times a week
the better patients went up to Lower Greenside where people
called Emerson ran a small shop and sold cups of tea.
Over the years things began to change, but probably not
quickly enough. Patients were allowed more freedom, locked
doors disappeared patients were allowed to go anywhere on
their own into Kirkburton or Huddersfield. There were more
activities and entertainment inside and outside the hospital.
They now had their own shop, boutique and bar also holidays
at the seaside, trips out and in some cases holidays abroad.
Previously it was just the weekly cinema show and monthly
dance, where incidentally the male patients had to sit on
the side of the hall and the females at the other. Of course
the big event those days was the Sports Day held in July;
on this occasion staff families were involved.
Storthes Hall for many years was part of Thurstonland parish
until the changes in its local government boundaries when
it was passed to Kirkburton. For religious services it was
covered by the Vicar of Thurstonland and many patients were
buried in Thurstonland Churchyard.
When the hospital opened it brought many people from other
parts of the country to work, some accommodated within the
hospital. Houses within the grounds were built for doctors
and senior officials and in Storthes Hall Lane for staff.
Also many people from the surrounding area were employed in
the hospital. The big social occasion for the staff was the
“Staff Dance” held in January.
For better or for worse the hospital closed in 1991.
THE UNDERTAKERS TALE
The Gill family have been joiners and undertakers
for over 100 years. The undertaking side of the business
developed rapidly with the opening of Storthes Hall Hospital
in 1904. their first recorded ‘paupers funeral’ was carried
out in 1905 at a cost of less than £2.
At that time transport was provided by horse and carriage.
Using a pony and a trap for their other business and hiring
a horse and hearse funerals it was quickly realised that buying
a heavy horse and a horse drawn hearse would reduce their
costs considerably. Their young apprentice was given the
job of looking after the horse and it was a regular sight
to see a horse and hearse trundling along driven by a small
person wearing a tall silk hat and short trousers.
The progress of the automobile brought the firm to the point
where they bought a vehicle and fitted a flat back to it.
They then designed different covers to bolt on the flat back
– a hearse, a truck for the joinery business and a bus with
which to carry the cricket team around, amongst other things.
It could be argued that this must have been one of the first
multi-purpose vehicles on the road.
Mains electricity was not available in 1923 but the firm
had made its own provisions based on an upright boiler. One
Monday the only person left in the joiners shop was a young
apprentice and the boiler was not firing properly. The lad
took a petrol can from the store, opened the boiler door and
threw some petrol in with the predictable result of a huge
flash back. The lad was badly burned, the joiners shop went
up in flames and the cricket club lost all of their tackle
as it had been left in the shop from the previous Saturdays
game.
LOCAL DEFENCE VOLUNTEERS
In the second world war many were called to the
cause even Thurstonland and Stocksmoor had a group of men
who daily volunteered to defend their country. They carried
out many military tasks while carrying out their normal employment,
whatever it was. The following were members of the LDV:-
SGT GEORGE BEST
SGT FRANK LINDLEY
JOHN HOLMES
CHARLIE CAMPBELJOHN
ALAN DISNEY
HAROLD WHITE
ROGER MELLOR
BOB BEAUMONT
CLIFFORD HILL
They were on duty twice a week. They were armed initially
with a shotgun between the lot of them but only one barrel
of this weapon would fire. They were going to be issued at
one time with pikes. They had a bell tent which they pitched
one day at the Trig point at the top of Thurstonland Bank
and there was a great gust of wind and the whole lot blew
away.
Eventually they were given Winchester Rifles, a Bren gun
and full uniform. A lot of time was spent observing from
the top of Thurstonland Bank and you could see on a clear
night the bombing of Sheffield. Manchester and Liverpool
by the German Air Force. One day as they were watching they
could see two lines of bright lights in the sky as an English
fighter plane pursued a German bomber after it had tried to
attack the David Browns factory at Lockwood. The bright lights
were the incendiary bullets form the fighter’s machine guns.
POST OFFICE
Thurstonland Post Office was opened in 1905 at
94 Tanyard. The first post master was Hannam Taylor who had
to walk to Stocksmoor Station to collect and sort mail for
delivery on his return journey. The Post Office remained
in the Taylor Family until January 1961. It moved from the
Tanyard to No1 The Green in 1951, then to Council Offices
in 1957. After 1961, it was taken by Frank Beever at No.
? The Village, but after a year it passed to Wilson Green
at Hawcliffe Lane, where it has remained. There have been
several changes of Post Masters until Gene Barden took it
over.

THE “CO-OP”
The post office is now the only shop in the village,
but in the past there have been several – confectioners, bakers,
butchers and greengrocers. The Co-op, once two cottages,
served the community from 1902 up to 1964 and has now reverted
to being a house.
The shop had two large windows for display and over the door
was the imposing 11ft wide green sign stating; “Brockholes
Industrial Co-operative Society, Thurstonland Branch” in cream
letters. With no perimeter wall, carts were able to pull
up, reverse, unload and load up whatever goods have to be
delivered. Usually this would take place at the lower end
of the building, near the boiler shed where a winch and pulley
system protruded from an upper opening.
Once inside the door wooden shop counters extended round two
sides of the spacious square room and under foot were floor
boards that were swept daily with the aid of used tea leaves.
Two chairs were available on the customer side of the counter
– shopping was slower then – and also a rack of biscuit tins
stood waiting to be weighed – perhaps a luxury item to tempt
the waiting customer. More essential items were arranged
on the many shelves behind the counters. In latter years
there was a fridge containing bacon and next to it a bacon
slicing machine. On top of the counter were scales used for
weighing almost all the goods sold. Bags, sometimes coloured,
were required for these, for example sugar in 1, 2, and 4LB
bags, peas in green bags, sweets in cone shaped bags known
as kites, flour, barley, wheat and Indian corn and oyster
shell grit.
As this list implies many people were self sufficient to
a degree, some keeping their own livestock and most making
food from basic ingredients – yeast being one of the many
essential items sold.
The main room of the shop could supply customers with the
produce mentioned as well as butter – Irish or Lurpak; a selection
of teas; cod liver oil; chocolates; stationary; candles and
soap. Donkey stones came in red, yellow or grey, and dish
cloths were also sold.
There was also a small drapery department which contained
the safe and a kettle for teabreaks. Some goods were stored
upstairs, but not a lot, as most were kept at Brockholes –
Thurstonland was only a branch Cooperative
Shop hours were from 8am until about 7pm, and 12.30pm on
Saturdays. The staff wore brown overalls, but on Fridays
and Saturdays wore white. In charge was the branch manager
– Horace Marsden was the last. The shop assistant was Mary
Charlesworth and Norah Haigh was the part-time worker who
walked round the district collecting the shopping orders.
These would be made up at the shop and delivered by cart by
Ces Harrison or Stanley Walton. When goods were bought the
customers was always given a receipt – the divided cheque
– which showed the price and type of goods as well as the
customer’s own Co-op number. A carbon copy of this was kept
and placed in a metal container, twice a year at the end of
February and August, the customer would look forward to receiving
a share of the Co-op’s profits – the famous “divvy” – in proportion
to the amount of their purchases. This could range from a
shilling to half a crown in the pound – a day worth waiting
for.
In August 1959 Richard Rowden was standing in for the branch
manager. Arriving for work at 8am he was dismayed to see
a broken window above the main shop and realised there had
been a break-in. The burglar had reached the window by climbing
on to the sloping roof of the brick built paraffin shed.
He had placed some sacking coating with treacle against the
glass before breaking it silently. Inside the storeroom many
cigarettes and cigars had been stolen, but tins of tobacco
and cigars in tubes had been left. The Brockholes Police
were called, finger prints taken, and eventually the burglar
was caught. Unfortunately it was Richard’s job to work out
exactly what was missing – an onerous job involving detailed
stocktaking.
The co-op amalgamated with Berry Brow in 1960 but with more
cars in the village, people travelled further afield and the
largest shop in the village eventually closed in 1964.

DEREK'S STORY
I was 6 ½ years old in 1941 when my brother and I were taken
from a children’s home in Lewes, East Sussex, and brought
to Yorkshire as evacuees. Brian went to a family in Farnley
Tyas. I came to Thurstonland.
My first impression of the village was of feeling totally
lost and rather scared, but quickly I realised that it was
far better than what I had left behind.
I moved into a cottage on East View with a wonderful couple
who became my foster parents until 1947, when at an age of
12, they legally adopted me. I then gained an identity of
my own and finally I knew this was where I belonged.
When I was 13 we Moved to Halstead Farm and to make my pocket
money I used to go round the village with a horse and cart
selling potatoes, giving 6 free turnips with every bag.
My lifelong involvement with the Cricket Club started as
a young lad in the days when you could neither have a bat
or ball until you had done your share of odd jobs, like rolling
the wicket etc. I eventually ran the junior section for about
10 years.
I never regretted at 12, making the decision to stay. The
village of Thurstonland was then and still is a great place
to be adopted into.

THURSTONLAND AFC, 1973-1983
There had been a soccer club in Thurstonland but
it had been defunct for a long time. It was decided from
a new club in 1973 and at one time or another, most of the
young men fit enough to play, i.e. under the age of 40, played
for the team.
The late John Shaw of Scotgate Works, Honley, provided us
with a strip and a pair of goal nets.
Our first game was a friendly against a YEB side. We lost
1-7, but the event was noteworthy because, unfortunately,
one of our opponents collapsed and died in the Rose and Crown
after the match.
We applied to join the Huddersfield and District Sunday Football
League and were accepted, playing the first season in Division
II because of the withdrawal of another club. The season
after we had to start in Division V. Over the years the club
did reasonable well but folded in about 1983 because the players
were aggrieved at not receiving runners-up medals.

THE HUDDERSFIELD AND SHEFFIELD JUNCTION
RAILWAY
The Huddersfield to Penistone line opened on 1
July 1850 when the inaugural train stalled in Thurstonland
tunnel. The engine, which was evidently not equal to both
the heavy load and wet rails, had to draw the front half of
the train to Stocksmoor and return for the remaining coaches
which had been left inside the tunnel, hopefully with sufficient
handbrakes applied.
The villages of Stocksmoor and Thurstonland have many physical
features indicating that the railway is beneath. There are
three air vents changing the air in the tunnel and getting
rid of the exhausts. The nearby village of Brockholes was
the junction point for the line to Holmfirth and on its way
it passes under Thurstonland Bank Road. This was a double
track for Brockholes and was quite a busy place with it’s
own signal box and water tower plus a number of sidings on
some of which coaches were stored awaiting their next turn.
Coal was dropped through chutes on one siding and this coal
was used by Brockholes Co-operative Society and was sold in
the Thurstonland and Stocksmoor area. The tunnel underneath
Thurstonland is very wet and engines often struggled up the
gradient towards Stocksmoor where the engines could have taken
on water from the adjacent dam. There was a mixture of trains
both passenger and goods, the coal trains came from Skelmanthorpe
and Clayton West Collieries.
Each day the one famous train came through, it did not stop
at small stations, this was called the South Yorkshireman.
It’s starting point was Bradford and it went via Sheffield
to London, the engine for this was usually a B1 Class 4.6.0.
Express Locomotive.
Huddersfield Engine Shed provided engines for most traffic
up the branch as it was known, but some engines came from
Bradford. Stocksmoor was a station which received goods wagons
carrying coal for the local coalman, Walter Noble & Sons.
The coal came from the coal fields in South Yorkshire and
the train was sorted out in Huddersfield into a correct sequence
so that each wagon could be dropped off at each station en
route from Huddersfield to Clayton West. This train was known
as the Drummer. The motive power for this was an Austerity
engine built during the second world war.
At Stocksmoor you can still see where the sidings were and
you could unload from adjacent trucks. The coal was taken
from the wagon and placed into sacks of 100cwt. The customers
had many preferences as to which coal they liked best but
coal from Grimethorpe and Hickleton were two which sold well.
Some people liked to buy bags of Nutty Slack, this was very
small coal which you placed on top of the fire at night causing
it to burn slowly so that in the winter the fire remained
in, lasting all night and keeping the house warm.
Thurstonland tunnel was constructed between 1846 and 1850,
when the railway was opened. It was a large project and the
village still has links with the people who built it. William
Moorhouse, also known as, “Billy Bah’t ands”. He was working
in Thurstonland tunnel when his hands were blown off by some
explosive. Emily Moorhouse was William Moorhouse’s daughter
and she was born in 1864. Emily Moorhouse married Johnny
Herbert, a miner, in 1890, and they lived at Marsh Hall Farm.
Her daughter, called Clara, was Amy Jackson’s mother. Clara
was born at Shepley Wood End and Amy, her daughter, our current
verger, was born in 1920.

MOLLY MANGLE
You may not have heard of Molly Mangle but she
occupied an important position in the culture of Thurstonland.
Molly Mangle lived in the yard of Manor House Farm opposite
the end of Hawcliffe Lane. The story goes that this house
which had very small windows all of which faced to the north,
in other words towards Huddersfield, she was the only person
in the village with a mangle so villagers would queue on wash
day, which was a Monday, to use her mangle and wring out the
clothes before they were placed on the washing line, hence
her name Molly Mangle.
THURSTONLAND MEMORIES
My first awareness of the village was a sort of
subconscious anticipation. Ever since childhood, when left
with a pencil or crayon, and a few moments to while away,
I have drawn the same doodle – a clump of trees with a church
spire sticking out of the top. Psychiatrists may make of
it what they will – but there it was.
Later, at the age of 34, a more tangible presentment of the
place occurred in Brian Turner’s Estate Agents in Huddersfield,
when I picked up the details of a house, and saw that magic
name – “Thurstonland”. It had the feeling of a little kingdom
all of its own – definitely not part of the British Empire
– but a land set apart – a spot on the Earth’s surface ruled
entirely by itself. Brian’s mother, noticing my interest,
remarked “You’ll be right away in the woods and the fields
there”. The fact that her words echoed one of my favourite
pieces of music, increased my curiosity even further, and
I got in my car without further ado. And then suddenly there
it was!! Rounding the crest of the hill beyond Farnley Tyas
I realised that my childish doodle had been made flesh – in
the shallow dip before me behold the clump of trees and in
its midst the slender Victorian Gothic spire of St Thomas’
Church. Needless to say I bought my house, and remained there
for more than a third of my life.
The basic position of the village is best realised when
looking east from the Pennines around Black Hill. There in
the grey-blue distance are two low hills, and between them
a long saddle, with a sharp spike at its centre. On closer
inspection the spike resolves into the church spire, and the
place is seen to have all the basic requirements of rural
life – a school, a pub, a main street, a few farms, one very
large field, and a great medley of very small ones – the field
divisions being partly hawthorn hedges, and partly stone walls.
The fields I later discovered, all had names such as “Hanging
Royd Shrogg”, “Lancaster” and “Hawcliffe”. Some of these
names preserved fragments of local history, such as “Old Maids
Field” – so called because the hay-making there was always
done by two old maids wearing shirts and sun bonnets. There
was also an “Old Maids Well”. Tradition had it that any young
girl who lingered near it would remain a virgin forever.
It goes without saying that the local maidens passed it at
a brisk trot.
Over the years I got to know the face of the village in
all it’s seasons. In Spring the daffodils would splash yellow
along the churchyard path; bluebells would soften the lower
slopes of Pike Stye; and the Heights would be vibrant with
spring-flowering gorse. Hay-making in the summer was now
the province of farmers, tractors, and small boys – who helped
load the bales onto the low flat wagons.
During the long light evenings, the whites of the indefatigable
cricketers would be silhouetted against the gathering dusk
of the fields beyond. On the waste heaps around the tunnel
vents, rose bay willow herb would be blooming in all its magnificence.
Autumn saw the potato lifting on Farnley Moor. The big field
would now be in stubble – looking superb in the late afternoon
sunlight. And as November approached the children gathered
every bit of spare timber, and built a gigantic bonfire on
the “rec”.
Finally there was winter – with the holly trees in berry
at the edge of Black Gutters wood; the J.C.B’s clearing great
snow drifts from Marsh Hall Lane; and numerous rehearsals
in progress for the annual Christmas Festival.
The people of course – I mustn’t forget them – for they
are not just figures in a landscape – they are the landscape.
Many anecdotes come to mind which could not possibly find
a place in this short article. I will therefore content myself
with just one. It concerns a gentleman brought up in the
village, who decided to emigrate to Canada. He said good-bye
to all his friends, and set off with his bag of belongings.
At the old mile-stone near the heights he paused to take one
last look at his place of birth. He stood there for a long
time, and then reputedly muttered: “My bonny Thurstonland
– I canny leave thee”, picked up his bags, trudged back to
the village, and remained there until the day he died.
I know how that man felt – I felt the same, and nothing
less exciting than a woman could have tempted my away. But
meeting Catherine on a Bronte Society excursion set in a motion
a train of events which eventually led to my moving to Todmorden
on the snowiest day of the winter of 93/94. there was too
much to think of at the time for nostalgia.
Now, when I think of Thurstonland, it isn’t really that
tangible place which I still sometimes visit to keep in touch
with my old friend Ralph Adamson. To some extent it is the
view from the Pennines – the two low hills, and the long saddle
between. But in a sense it isn’t even that: just the childish
doodle, with the clump of trees, and the tall church spire
sticking up from their midst.

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