Crail

Bus companies must have the friendliest and most tolerant employees on Earth, at least here in the Kingdom of Fife and especially the drivers of the dreaded 95 bus from Leven to Dundee via the East Neuk . I've seen some of them insulted, harassed, struggle with prams. blamed for traffic jams and hounded by road-ragers. Yet they always seem to be in control and have a big grin on their face when they relieve you of your fare.

I recall travelling on this bus from St Andrews in the summer, along the winding roads, through sleepy villages, when the driver decided to have a refreshment stop.

Whilst static he saw a newly married couple and their guests spilling out of an ancient church, happy as larks on a warm, sunny afternoon. The driver actually encouraged his passengers to join the onlookers to cheer the happy couple!

I was amongst the bairns waiting for the scrammie. A scrammie, or scramble, is when the Best Man throws a handful of coins in the direction of the youngsters, who then try their hardest to pocket the lot. It's amazing! I got nothing - too old, too slow, too bad.

Today my journey ends at Crail, the oldest of the Ancient Royal Burghs of the East Neuk.

It's picturesque harbour, with old Customs House and Castle ruins above, is renowned world-wide.

The layout of the town is of medieval origin. Crail's Burgh Tollbooth still contains its fine Dutch bell of 1520, which still rings a curfew at 10 o'clock, but is totally ignored by the local youths who are in a drunken stupor outside the Off-License waiting for the Polis to move them on.

In the olden days it wasnae the Police that was feared, it was the Excise men of the crow-stepped Custom House of the 1690's who chased the fleet-footed smugglers around Crail harbour for the exercise.

Here at the Golf Hotel I'm chasing a pint of heavy with a Famous Grouse whisky. It's a fine custom. Next stop the home of golf, St Andrews - see you there.

Wandering Willie