
"A Bridge Over Troubled Water" At Dundee
The final mile and a half of my journey to Bonnie Dundee
has finally arrived as we approach the Tay Road Bridge, opened
in 1966 by the Queen Mother and which is one of the longest
of it's type in Europe.
One of the longest journeys in Scotland surely must be the
one I've just experienced on this rumbling, clapped-out, double
decker bus, the dreaded 95 from Leven to Dundee via the East
Neuk of Fife.
It's been a long time since I went the "whole way",
and I'm sure that an R.A.F rescue helicopter escorted us from
Leuchars!
The wind is quite strong today on the bridge but certainly
not as strong as it was on the night of December 28, 1879
when a storm swept the Tay rail Bridge away, along with 75
train passengers.
The bridge collapsed within 19 months of it's opening due
to the slender nature of the design, the poor quality of workmanship
or, possibly, the train exceeding the speed limit.
The replacement bridge was completed in 1887 but the brick
column bases, used to support the first bridge, can still
be seen on the East side of the present bridge.
We arrive at Dundee bus station with no bother at all, phew!
Welcome to Dundee, City of Discovery and the place of my
birth. Dundee bus station is similar to any other bus station
in the country except it is brand new and, yippee, after all
those years of being "caught short between journeys,
the travelling public are delighted and relieved to see that
lesser spotted beast, the public toilet, installed in the
waiting area.
It's 20p a go and business is brisk. It's disgusting that
you have to pay that amount to answer the call of nature -
whatever happened to "spending a penny?" It costs
10p in Leven and is free in St Andrews, so if you can hold
on till the home of golf folks you're home free.
No seriously,
20p a day as a lot of dough for regular travellers to pay
for a visit to the loo, that's £12.80 a year, but if
you suffer from incontinence or a weak bladder, double it.
It should be possible to use the facilities for free if you
purchase a ticket to travel!
As an afterthought I wonder if the expense is tax-deductible
for business travellers. If you want value for money take
a book with you and go the whole hog. "War and Peace"
sounds good if you are gonna get your moneys worth!
Dundee flourished during the medieval period and was one
of the richest burgh's in the country by the early 1600's
but the town, during the mid 17th century, was sacked by the
armies of the Duke of Montrose and General Monk, which spoilt
it's growth and prosperity for half a century and beyond.
Dundee was really built on Jute, Jam and Journalism in the
19th century, but only journalism today with the D. C. Thompson
Company producing our favourite characters from the Beano
and other famous comics. I saw Denis the Menace collecting
for charity in the Galleon Bar one night and I admit that
I'd had a few whiskies but he looked younger than me.

VERDANT WORKS (excerpt from
the official brochure).
Verdant Works is much more than a textile heritage centre-it's
a living, breathing reminder of a vanished world. Experience
how the people of Dundee really lived over 100 years ago -
rich and poor, young and old, at work and play. Get a real
insight into their lives, learn how they coped in an era of
dramatic change and experience a bygone age. Absorb the sights,
sounds and smells of the machine room, sense the earth tremble
as the original machines roar into life. Feel what it was
like to work here a century ago, and hear the workers tales
as they confide their secrets and tell you their hopes, dreams
and fears.
When I was young I was nurtured in an area surrounded by
Jute mills and, sometimes, I used to have a blether with a
weaver or someone, on my way to primary school and I used
to say that when I grew up I was gonna work in a mill and
drive a bogey. A bogey was a nifty vehicle for
carrying bales of jute around the mills and I wanted one.
When I reached the age of fifteen I got my wish and worked
in a jute mill in a suburb of Dundee called Lochee but I wasn't
allowed to drive a bogey so I just picked a few.
I was employed as the mill's office boy and I was the most
popular guy in the place on Friday afternoons, wheeling the
wages trolley through the mill. What a din, calm down girls!
In the middle of the 19th century Dundee weavers were averaging
ten shillings for a weeks work, starting at 5.30am until 7.00pm,
six days a week. Their main entertainment was drink and producing
children - what a way to relax, it beats watching Coronation
Street.
For some strange reason Dundee's population increased dramatically
and rows of dreary tenements were built to house them. They
were without drains or a decent water supply but the tenants
accepted the circumstances with little complaint.
The only complaint that I have today, after a wee wander
to the derelict old jute mills, is that one of my favourite
pubs, the Weavers Arms, is closed for refurbishment so it's
down to the Galleon Bar me old shipmates. I don't believe
it, it's closed and, OH NO, it's changed it's name to Flares!
I'll
just have to go down to Discovery Quay which, by the way,
isn't a pub, it's where Captain Scott's famous ship "RRS
Discovery" is berthed, looking out onto the Tay.
Scott and his crew incredibly survived two long winters locked
in Antarctic ice only to die on a trek to the North Pole later.
A quick stroll and a five minute walk if you run along the
quayside and I come across the frigate Unicorn, which is a
46-gun wooden warship, launched in Chatham in 1824. She is
now the oldest British
ship afloat.
Well folks it should come as no surprise to you that Dundee
has a close association with the sea and was once the UK's
leading whaling port but now it's the City of Discovery and,
like any other city, if you stop for a rest in the city centre,
the local drunks will hassle you for your spare change so
that they can exchange it for a little light refreshment -
or for there bus fare to Broughty Ferry, Desperate Dan is
still here!
PREPARE TO SET SAIL ON A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY
(excerpt from the official brochure)
Follow Captain Scott and his crew on their perilous voyage
into the unknown. See how Discovery was built, witness the
launch - and see her blasted free of the crushing pack ice
in a dramatic rescue. Explore RRS Discovery, the actual
ship Scott sailed in! See the wardroom where he planned
his epic Antarctic journey, and feel what life was like
for the crew who survived two long winters locked in the
ice. Uncover the secrets of Antarctica, the last great wilderness-do
your own scientific experiments! With loads of interactive
activity for the kids, Discovery Point is great fun for
all!
It's Christmas Time, Mistletoe and Grouse
The local bus from the centre of Dundee, with
the Christmas spirit in full swing, takes about 15 minutes
to the fishing town of Broughty Ferry
where the Jute barons of Dundee built their mansions in
the 1800's and had a cosy life.
Broughty Ferry was known as the 'Brighton
of Scotland' with trains arriving at the railway station
teeming with holiday folk in the summer, heading for the
beach.
The train station was built in the mid 1800's
and train spotters still fight for the best position at
the level crossing. They always seem to disappear before
the police arrive but a couple were spotted in disguise
by CCTV outside the Royal Arch. I was having a wee refreshment
inside, officer, and saw nothing, trying to get into the
Christmas spirit is proving difficult with these interruptions.
Down at the castle green, the flag of Scotland
proudly flies at Broughty Castle, a 15th century estuary
fort. It was besieged by the English in the 16th century
and was attacked by Cromwellians under General
Monk in the 17th century. It is now a museum which displays
local history and Dundee's whaling story.
On the way back to Dundee we pass the limb fitting centre
so I know where to go if I need a hand.
Dundee's Wellgate shopping centre was mobbed with Christmas
shoppers this afternoon. One of the escalators broke down
and some of its passengers were prepared to stand there for
hours until it was repaired, lazy gits.
Yes! The Xmas rush is here, yippee! Jingle bells in the tills.
Pushing, shoving, screaming kids, irate mothers, fairy lights,
happy and gay.
Did you know that gay Scottish farmers prefer peat to heather
at Christmas.
In the city square there was golden galloping horses spinning
round on Warrington's Victorian Carousel with screaming kids
having the time of their lives and the ice rink tent next
to the giant Christmas tree was full to bursting with skaters.
It's Christmas time.
Here
at Deacon Brodies, one of Dundee's liveliest pubs, the spirit
of Xmas is here as well and the Xmas menu is now on display;
roast bubbly jock with traditional trimmings, roast potatoes
and fresh vegetables yum yum, followed by Christmas pudding
log with brandy cream sauce. All I need is an offer.
Big Al's karaoke disco is in full swing on the corner and
someone's put me down for 'Mack the Knife' that'll be right,
no chance I ain't singing tonight, I'm drinking.
'Cambelltown Loch I wish you were whisky, I would drink you
dry' yea. Well folks, I've had a few glasses of the Famous
Grouse whisky and it's done me no harm at all and really I'm
just practising for a visit to the Scotch whisky heritage
centre when I arrive in Edinburgh, where a whole world of
taste sensations await me at the bar, where I have an opportunity
to sample a wide variety of scotch whisky brands.
Gloria Gaynors song is now being sung by a few girls on
the karaoke machine and they sound awful. I've had a few drinks
too many now but as the song goes, I will survive.
See you in Edinburgh for Hogmanay hick, 'scuse me, pished,
it is Chrisshmas after all ta ta.
Wandering Willie
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